Dress #2 - Wrap Dress

Wrap dresses are awesome.  They are super flattering on many body types, and pretty comfy to wear.  I love this particular dress because it also happens to be jam packed with new draping lessons!

While draping this dress you will learn how to:

• Drape a princess bodice
• Drape on the bias
• Drape a surplice top that crosses over the center front line
• Contour around the bust with darts and pleats
• Drape a six-gore (princess panel) flared skirt
• Drape and open neckline collar
• Use your sleeve sloper to draft a cap sleeve

Now that you are pattern drafting pros, I'm giving you a busy-work breather before you begin your final dress project. You won't need to transfer this drape to paper.  What you will need to do is:

• Neatly true each drape
• Mark and cut correct seam allowance
• Cut additional duplicate pieces to make a full wrap dress so that the dress will have:
• Right front surplice bodice
• Left front surplice bodice
• Full back bodice
• 2 side back bodice
• 2 cap sleeves
• 1 collar
• 1 tie (will draft)
• 2 front skirts
• 3 side front skirts
• 1 back skirt
• 2 side back skirts
• 1 side front skirt extension (fills the gap between the princess seam and the end of the pleated edge on the outer part of the wrap)
• Carefully pin or machine baste the pieces together
• Mark the hem level with the floor at 22" from the center front waist

Extra credit will be given to anyone who chooses to make a final sample.  Final samples will only be accepted if seam finishing (overlock or French seams), and facings are used.  

Stay tuned for an evaluation sheet – I'm still putting one together.

Dress #1 - Empire Dress

This dress design is loosely based on a dress that I saw selling on Barneys.com for over $600.  Instead of paying that price tag - you'll make your own!

While draping this dress you will learn how to:

• Manipulate front bodice dart fullness around the apex
• Work with style lines and piecing on the dressform
• Eliminate the back shoulder dart
• Create dart equivalents like pleats
• Add fullness to a skirt waistline
• Peg a skirt

While drafting the pattern you will learn how to:

• Mark pleats
• Draft a skirt vent
• Draft all-in-one neckline/armhole facings

While sewing the a finished sample of this dress you will learn how to:

• Sew pleats
• Instal and invisible zipper (review if you haven't already)
• Clean finish a neckline and an armhole at the same time with an all-in-one facing
• Make a professional looking skirt vent

Are you ready to get started?  What will you need in addition to muslin and your regular supplies?

• A print-out of the pattern card (will use this initially for placing style lines on the form)
• 1/4" twill tape or style tape to mark style lines on your form
• About 2 yards of medium weight woven fabric
• Think EASY SEWING!
• No corduroy or velvet
• No stretch fabric or knits
• No sheers
• Quilter's cotton, tightly woven linen, or light weight twills or sateens are great choices
• You don't need this until your drape is complete, but start thinking about and looking for what you would like to use
• Using contrasting fabrics often looks great on this dress
• About 1/2 yard of medium weight fusible interfacing 
• A 22" invisible zipper that matches your fabric (as close as possible)
• A small wire hook & eye
• Matching thread
• Piping or other trim is optional
• A garment bag for turning it in on

This is the pattern card that we will be using:

We will also be specing out the final dress:

Here is the evaluation form that will accompany your finished sample and pattern:

 

Assignment #1 - Basic Block

The introduction to draping begins with the drape of the Basic dress foundation. Though the basic dress has no particular style or designs it is related to:  every garment in your clothing collection, every design created, and every pattern developed.

It represents the very foundation on which designs, pattern making and fit is based. 

The basic dress fits the outer lines of the figure, bridging the hollow areas around the bust, abdomen, buttocks, and between the shoulder blades. The garment has sufficient ease for comfortable movement without the appearance of stress. The sleeve hangs perfect alignment with the relaxed arm and has 1ess and cap ease. The skirt hangs straight from the hipline, width the hem parallel to the floor.  The fit of the dress is controlled by darts.

The drape of the basic dress foundation introduces the relevant information about balance, ease, and fit. 

Refer to Chapter 4 in Draping For Apparel Design for the following Steps:

1. Measure, tear, and prep muslin
2. Drape Basic Skirt
3. Drape Basic Bodice
4. True and Fit Basic Block Drape
5. Transfer drapes to dot paper to draft patterns from Basic Block Drapes
6. Draft a basic sleeve 
7. Cut and Sew Basic Block in muslin
8. Set Basic Sleeve into Bodice
9. Evaluate Basic Bodice Fit, and correct
10. Make basic block slopers out of manilla paper (oaktag)

After the fit sample and slopers are made, you will be creating a pattern card and spec sheet to turn in with them.  The information listed at the top of these technical documents should match the information on your patterns. You may use a pre-printed pattern card from a design supply store, or you may download and print this one.  If you print my version, mount it on manilla or put it in a sheet protector and hang it in the front of your slopers on a pattern hook.

Print the following spec sheet, and fill it out after the fit sample and slopers are created.  Fill out the size 8 column with  measurements taken from the sloper.  They represent perfect measurements for that style.  Fill out the  "Actual Sample" column with measurements taken from the fit sample.  Compare your fit sample measurements against the perfect measurements, and see how well your samples measures up.  If the sample measurement is within the Tolerance measurement listed, put a "P" for Pass in the "Pass Tol +/" column.  If your measurement is excessively larger or smaller than the tolerance, put a "F" in the "Pass Tol +/-" column.

Turn in final fit sample, slopers, pattern card, and spec sheet for evaluation with the following evaluation sheet.

Please check your own work against the evaluation criteria before turning it in.  You may find a few things that were missed, and may earn some extra points!

FASH 108 - Spring 2011 Course Description

Text: Draping for Apparel Design, Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Prerequisite: Fash 1A
(Course and/or other preparation/experience that is REQUIRED to be completed previous to enrollment in this course.)

Catalogue Description: 

Designs created by draping on dress forms. Patternmaking from completed drapes. Construction of basic slopers and samples. Maximum credit 6 units, 3 units each semester. Total of 36 hours lecture and 72 hours laboratory.

Student Learning Outcomes:

Upon successful completion of this course, the student will be able to....

·       Demonstrate the skill of draping the basic sloper/blocks.

·       Analyze grain, learn to follow the grain to achieve perfect fit and design                 

·       Translate a basic drape into a flat pattern

·       Understand the correct use of production documents

Class Content:

·       Become familiar with tools and equipment of the apparel trade

·       Learn about the dress form, including how to use, care for and measure the dress form, as well as learning to name the parts of the dress form

·       Discover the properties of different fabrics, fabric construction and fabric terminology

·       Learn the importance of the quality and grain line of fabric in relation to design                 

·       Drape or manipulate fabric on a dress form to create garments

·       Put into practice practical skills that combine draping and flat pattern drafting

·       Create foundation patterns, blocks, slopers, which become the base for styles

·       Construct garments to gain a sense of proportion and placement of style lines and to evaluate and correct fit, hang and balance of garments

·       Practice draping methods used by many designers to create original designs

Course Details

Attendance Policy:
Students at Pasadena City College are expected to attend every session of each class. Nonattendance may result in being dropped from the class. Students who are late or who leave class early three times, will be given the equivalent of an absence.  Two absences can result in a student being dropped from the class.

PASADENA CITY COLLEGE STUDENT HAND BOOK, Page 10 http://www.pasadena.edu/studentservices/counseling/orientation/Studnt_Handbk.pdf

Attendance

It is your responsibility to attend all meetings of each course in which you are enrolled.  It is especially important to attend the first two meetings. If you do not, you may be dropped from the class. If you miss two weeks of classes during the semester, you may be dropped. After an absence, check with your instructor about completing missed assignments.

In FASH 108, 20% of course grades are based on attendance.  Roll is taken at the beginning and at the end of class.  Lectures and demonstrations are given at the beginning of class, and again at the mid point of class sessions.  Toward the end of class sessions, information is given about what will be required for the next class session.  Lectures and demonstrations will not be repeated for late or absent students.  Any information given in a lecture or demonstration that is missed by a student should be obtained from classmates.

Dropping the Course:

While instructors have the option of dropping students who stop attending during the term, IT IS THE STUDENT'S RESPONSIBILITY TO DROP ALL CLASSES THAT HE OR SHE WILL NO LONGER ATTEND. STUDENTS WHO STOP ATTENDING BUT DO NOT DROP A CLASS MAY RECEIVE A FAILING GRADE.

PASADENA CITY COLLEGE STUDENT HAND BOOK, Page 10 http://www.pasadena.edu/studentservices/counseling/orientation/Studnt_Handbk.pdf

Withdrawals (Drops)

It is your responsibility to drop any class that you no longer plan to attend. If you do not officially drop a class, you may receive a grade of “F”. Check the academic calendar, printed in the Schedule of Classes, or contact the Registration office (L113) to find out about drop deadlines. DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE INSTRUCTOR WILLDROP YOU!

PASADENA CITY COLLEGE CATALOG 20010-2011 Section 1 -     

http://www.pasadena.edu/catalog/section1.htm

Drops – Absence

Students considered as “no-shows” will be dropped during the census period of classes. Students must make arrangements with instructors prior to any planned absences from class. Census for semester-length courses is the time frame before the third Monday of the semester for 16 week courses. Census periods for short-term courses vary.  Students may be dropped from a semester-length class for continuous or cumulative absences which total the number of hours the class is scheduled to meet in a two-week period. For short-term courses students may be dropped after missing 11% of the total class hours. Three tardies may be considered the equivalent of one absence.

Drops for Other Causes

a.  Drop for Unsafe Performance – A student whose classroom, clinical, or laboratory actions are dangerous to the health or welfare of the student or other persons may be dropped from the class.

b.  Drop for Unsatisfactory Conduct or Citizenship – A student may be dropped from class for unsatisfactory conduct or citizenship related to the class. This includes, but is not limited to, conduct in a classroom or other setting such as a laboratory, clinic, or workstation. Unsatisfactory conduct or citizenship includes, but is not limited to, cheating, plagiarism, other forms of academic dishonesty, flagrant violation of instructor direction, and actions disruptive to the on-going teaching and learning process.

Class Preparedness:

In order to receive credit, students must come to every class on time, with their assignments completed, and with all the tools and materials required to complete the in-class assignments. Students are responsible for keeping abreast of the current material and assignment due dates.

• Behave in this class as you would behave at work; If you are going to miss class for any reason, email AND phone At least 24 hours in advance, or AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE. 
•  Email is the preferred method of communication, but emails must be sent at least 24 hours in advance of class. 
•   If you are late to class, you can call the classroom at (626)585-7087 DURING NORMAL CLASS TIMES.  Do not call outside of normal class times, because your teacher will NOT get the message. 
•  If you know that you are going to leave early, be late, be absent or miss any part of class for any reason, it is your responsibility to get the missed information from a classmate (the teacher absolutely CANNOT repeat lectures or demonstrations for those who miss class). 
• Also, plan on making up missed class time outside of your regular class – make arrangements with your teacher ahead of time to make up missed class time outside of your regular class.  

Homework:

Homework, consisting of several hours each week, will be assigned on a regular basis. Chapter reading, first and final patterns, and sample sewing will often be completed as homework.

PASADENA CITY COLLEGE STUDENT HAND BOOK  PAGE 8 - http://www.pasadena.edu/studentservices/counseling/orientation/Studnt_Handbk.pdf

Before choosing your classes, take a moment to consider the following: How much time will I have to be a college student? Being a successful college student requires not only classroom attendance but hours of study outside of class as well.  Each class has a unit value. Generally, one unit of credit equals one hour of class time. Most classes are worth three units, since they meet three hours each week. Plan on studying 11/2 to 2 hours per week for each hour in class.

Grading Standards:

In Fash108, assignments, drapes, fit samples, paper patterns, and production documents (pattern cards, spec sheets and cost sheets) are graded and evaluated on how well instructions are followed, quality, completeness and accuracy. Final grades are based on a combination of attendance, project grades, tests/quizzes, and final dress grades.

LATE ASSIGNMENTS and PROJECTS WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED and WILL NOT BE EVALUATED.

A student can potentially earn 10 attendance points every day.  2.5 points will be deducted for every tardy (5 minutes or later), instance of leaving early/missing clean up, and for not being prepared with correct supplies.   If you are late, not prepared, and leave early, you may only earn 2.5 points.

Final grades are weighted as follows:

• Attendance:                                          20%
• Weekly Projects :                 
• Basic Block:                               12%
• Dress #1:                                    16%
• Princess Bodice Drape:              2%
• Dress #2 Drape:                           8%
• Cowl Drape:                                  2%
• Final Dress:                                 20%
• Tests/Quizzes and Final:                    20%  

Tools & Supplies

SEWING Supplies and Tools in a TOOL BOX OR BAG – all are required

Label toolbox and supplies with your name or signature color

*ACCESS TO A SEWING MACHINE OUTSIDE OF CLASS TIME IS REQUIRED

Note-taking supplies: Students will need to take detailed notes. 

• 3 ring binder
• Notepaper
• Optional: digital cameras, video and or audio to record demonstrations and lectures

Sewing supplies: Most of the sewing supplies, books and tools required for FASH1A, will also be required.

• Thread, bobbins and bobbin cases
•  Machine and hand-sewing needles
• Tailors chalk
• Thread snips
•  Seam ripper
•  Sewing reference book

Draping/Patternmaking supplies:

• 10 yards of dot pattern paper (approximately)
• 10 yards of brown paper (approximately)
• 5 yards of manila paper (approximately)
• 15 yards of muslin (approximately) – NOT from Joann Fabrics.
• 1 yards of silky fabric, like charmeuse for a cowl drape exercise
•  2 ½ yards of 1/2” black twill tape for marking the form with key lines
• 2 yards of ¼” black twill tape for marking the form with style lines

Draping/Patternmaking tools:

• Paper Shears
•  Fabric Shears
• Rulers
• 18" transparent, plastic "C-thru" ruler
•  L-square
•  #17 French curve – looks like the number 9
•  Metal hip curve  or vari-form curve
• Tape Measure
•  Tracing wheel – a spikey one, not the dull ones used by home sewers
• Notcher
• Push pins
• Satin steel dressmaker pins
• Pin cushion or magnetic dish
• Mechanical pencils
•  Large eraser
•  Black, Green, Red and Blue fine point sharpie markers
•  Black, Green, Red and Blue ball point pens
• Scotch tape – the frosted type, not glossy
•  Standard or long arm stapler
• Staples
• 3 Pattern hooks
• Masking Tape
• 3 Pattern Cards (You may use the Excel version that I provide or a store bought manila card)
•  9”x12” envelopes (clasp, not adhesive closure)
• Clear sheet protectors

Major Project supplies: dependent on the projects chosen

• WOVEN Fashion fabrics suitable for day-wear, approximately 2-3 yards for each dress
• Medium weight fusible interfacing
• Zippers, hook and eyes, and other closures
• Various trims and notions including matching thread
• Similar cheaper test fabric (often muslin) will be required to drape and to sew a fit sample.

SUPPLIERS:

Some supplies are available at the campus bookstore.  The balance of the supplies can be purchased from one of the following:

• IDS:  1364 South Hill Street, Los Angeles  (213) 748-1418
• Ace Sewing Machine Co:  214 E 8th Street, Los Angeles  (213) 622-8345
• Michael Levine:  920 Maple Ave, Los Angeles  (213) 622-6259
• Vecchiarelli Brothers:  1203 South Olive Street, Los Angeles  (213) 749-5944
• Pasadena Vacuum & Sewing Ctr:  1244 East Colorado Blvd, Pasadena  (626) 795-3231
• Joann Fabrics:  Lake Avenue Closed – check website for other locations

Pattern Card

The Dress Form

Draping

Construction

PCC Fashion

PCC Fashion